I just got a Sports Tracker Bluetooth HRM2 heart rate monitor and scanned the manual.
If you need the manual you can find the scan here:

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=66A7C4D63C1C4B2B!552&authkey=!AKdVnH9dJQvqr0I&ithint=file%2cpdf


Sports Tracker
SportsTracker
HRM2
Heart Rate Monitor 2

27" HD display/monitor - thoughts

As I mentioned here I bought a new monitor to use as a 2nd display with my current laptop.
Ever since I started working with 2 monitors I can't go back to just one...


Anyway, it's a 27" monitor with a max. resolution of 1920x1080 (Full HD, 1080p).


Had I known/realized how crappy the support in Windows is for adjusting DPI
for large displays (as well as different size displays)
I probably would have bought a 23" 1080p monitor rather than a 27"
or waited/spent a bit more and bought a 27" with higher resolution.

The smallest DPI setting that Windows (8/8.1 and also currently 10) support ist 96dpi.
That is still too large for a 27" display, 80...86 dpi would probably be useful,
but there's no way I could find to force Windows below 96 dpi, not even with registry tweaks.


My Acer laptop has a 15.4" Full HD screen.

Close up (normal laptop working distance) 96dpi are good.
Having it on a stand further away now means I would need ~110dpi to make it easily readable.
The 27" at this dpi setting would probably be good for a legally blind person.
Fonts are huge, I feel I have to turn my head when reading to follow the text.

With some fiddling in Win 8.1 I was able to set the laptop screen to 125% (that's what Windows calls it) and leave the 27" at 100%. (That setup was easier to achieve in Windows 10).
But I feel all Windows does to achieve this is to simulate a smaller resolution on the smaller screen to make things appear larger. Text is a bit blurry, the picture isn't very crisp overall.
 So, in short, if you're going above 23" with your monitor consider spending more for a screen with more than 1920x1080 resolution to make use of all that area in a better way.

I'm dual-booting with Linux now and I think I should be able to tweak Linux to give me what I need...

Access Fritz.Box 'through the backdoor'

Changed some settings for my Fritz.Box at once and wasn't able to access it anymore.

Bit of searching on the web found that one should (always !?)

be able to access it at the IP-address 169.254.1.1

Tried that and it worked :-D

See here:
http://en.avm.de/guide/security/tips-for-additional-security/opening-the-fritzbox-user-interface/

or here in more detail for the Fritz Box 7490:
http://en.avm.de/nc/service/fritzbox/fritzbox-7490/knowledge-base/publication/show/374_Opening-the-FRITZ-Box-user-interface-in-IP-Client-or-wireless-repeater-operating-mode-when-the-IP-address-is-unknown/


Auf Deutsch:

http://avm.de/ratgeber/sicherheit/tipps-fuer-zusaetzliche-sicherheit/benutzeroberflaeche-der-fritzbox-aufrufen/

http://avm.de/nc/service/fritzbox/fritzbox-7490/wissensdatenbank/publication/show/374_Benutzeroberflaeche-im-IP-Client-bzw-WLAN-Repeater-Betrieb-aufrufen-wenn-IP-Adresse-unbekannt/

Display/monitor power off instead of going into standby

I recently acquired a 27" display to use as a 2nd monitor with my Acer laptop.
It's an LG model 27MP57HT-P.
Full HD 1920x1080 resolution.

Hooked it up to the laptop via HDMI.
What soon started bugging me was that whenever it lost video input, e.g.
- laptop turning off all displays for power saving reason
- laptop going into standby
- laptop powered off
- rebooting and messing with the BIOS

the monitor turned off. As in powered off. The message on the screen was
------------------------------------------------
No Signal
Please check your connection
------------------------------------------------

followed by

-------------------------------------------------
Power is off in 10 seconds to save energy
-------------------------------------------------
And then it powers off. The white power LED stays off.
Meaning I needed to use the power-button/menu-joystick to power it on again.
This got pretty tedious.
And I didn't trust that power button to survive multiple uses every day for many years.

So I thought this can't be.
Looked around on the web,
couldn't find anything specific but some people suggested switching HDMI cables might help.
 
So I swapped in a different HDMI cable between my laptop and the monitor.

And who would have thought...it works now !

When it doesn't see any video signal now it says on the screen
------------------------------------------------
No Signal
Entering the power saving mode shortly.
------------------------------------------------
and then it enters standby.
The white power LED blinks.
And once it sees a video signal again it comes on
and the picture is there within a few seconds.

While I am certain there is no difference in video signal quality between different HDMI cables,
I have seen issues in the past related to signaling.
I remember trying to connect an AppleTV device a while back,
it didn't work on our TV with the cable it came with,
but a different cable worked.

So, if you hooked up your display/monitor via HDMI
and it powers off instead of going into standby,
try a different HDMI cable !

Nokia N900 Reset Lock Code

Was trying to reset my Nokia N900 today. When selecting to do that most Nokia phones ask for a lock code. Usually it's  12345  by default. Other websites indicated  0000   or  00000  could also be a possibility, as well as 54321.
Well, after a lot of trying it turns out for mine it was  123456  . I can't be sure if I changed it to that code some time in the past, or if it was the default...